Do this before you start drain or soak away set up
Do this before you start drain set up
Before starting any plumbing and drainage work yourself you should find out about any Local Authority rules that relate to your area.
If you are changing your current sewage, or installing a new system, you will most definitely be asked to show detailed plans of the implementation that you have in mind and it will need to be overseen as the work moves forward to ensure that it is compliant with local building rules. However you do not require authority approval for replacement of failed joints or cracked plumbing and drains pipes.
Surface water is basically rain. In older properties this surface water can find its way into the foul water sewage system, but more generally it can also end up in a watercourse, surface water sewer or soakaway pit. To stop any nasty odours emanating from the drains a combined system will discharge the surface water into the foul water drains by way of the gully traps and not into the soakaway drain. However with the new drainage systems, the foul and the surface water can be kept apart. Rainwater and foul water sewage should not be interconnected, however convenient it may seem. The Building Regulation Department will be able to guide you on any details or procedures you may require for repairs or replacement of your sewage and design of soak aways.
Designing the path of the waste passageways will be your first task. Sewage pipes must be aligned as straight as possible, with inspection chambers at short intervals. The pipe work should run straight with a gentle incline. Use a surveyor’s leveling tool to set out the slope of the drain ditch. In the absence of one of these, create a datum point and set levels with a hosepipe filled with water and compute the fall from the datum in this manner.
You will need to guarantee that you do not impact on the stability of the building whilst installing your drain ditch. Keep the drain pipe excavation at a uniformly safe distance from the house face to avoid damage to the foundation.
Try to leave as short a time as possible between digging the trench and installing the sewage system as an empty trench represents a risk with the potential for a sidewall collapse. Make sure that you get the pipes laid as quickly as possible and then back-fill the ditch as soon as the system has been inspected and tested.
The ditch may need to be supported depending on the depth and soil conditions. Do not take any risks even with rainwater soakaways. If you are not entirely confident of the stability of the trench you should add support. The excavation should be only as wide as required, but should also permit the fitter to work conveniently. The bottom of the trench must be smooth and clean, free of any objects that make it uneven such as stones or bricks. If the material at the base of the ditch is not appropriate then you might have to bring in new material.
The pipe present in the ditch should not be supported using bricks or other such materials. This should not be used as employing this type of material as a temporary or permanent pipe support will damage the pipe. For accommodation of the joints in the pipes,the bedding should be compacted in a regular way with hollows made a appropriate points. You will need to provide a continuous and uniform support for the complete length of the pipe.
It is very important that the design of the drainage system should be constructed in such a way that all parts of the pipework are accessible to a set of drain rods for future maintenance. The drains or soakaway pipes should therefore run straight between two points to ease the passage of the drain rods. In case of any change in the direction of the pipework it should be provided with an inspection chamber for allowing drains rod access. You would not want to open up a soakaway pit to do this.
Following this guide you can see that DIY plumbing and sewage can be delivered by conscientious DIY enthusiasts.
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